Desde hace más de 170 años, la compañía González Byass se ha consagrado como uno de los grupos de referencia en el panorama vitivinícola español, con productos entre los que destaca el emblemático jerez Tío Pepe, líder mundial en ventas de fino, marca reconocida en más de 100 países que en la V edición de Millésime Madrid ha presentado una nueva gama de finos Premium de las más alta calidad.
-¿En qué consiste la gama de vinos finos Palma que presentan hoy?
-La gama que González Byass presenta hoy en este salón Millésime, cita de la más alta gastronomía internacional en Madrid, constituye un grupo de vinos finos evolucionados. El vino fino Tio Pepe es un vino vivo, que va modificando su estado natural día a día.
Antaño, los capataces, los enólogos, iban revisando esa evolución prácticamente a diario, e iban marcando las evoluciones en la bota, en la barrica, con un toque de tiza, y de esa nomenclatura surgieron auténticas joyas, como son las patas de gallina, los cortados, las rayas, que después cayó prácticamente en desuso y que ahora González Byass recupera con esta colección especial que va desde el fino Una Palma, con una media de seis años de envejecimiento en crianza biológica, hasta el Cuatro Palmas, que por su fermentación alcohólica y su tipología pasa a denominarse un Amontillado de elegancia sublime.
Estamos hablando de un vino con más de 40 años, y sin embargo tiene esos caracteres que le hacen ser un Palma, los cuales vienen determinados por su finura y su agradable paso de boca. Son auténticas joyas que estamos seguros los amantes del buen vino y en particular los amantes del jerez van a valorar muchísimo.
-¿Todas las barricas y botas que entran a la bodega pueden evolucionar así o constituyen una selección?
-Efectivamente, el mundo del jerez trabaja a largo plazo, pues como sabemos el vino que entra en cada cosecha está estático, fermentando, transformándose en lo que luego será la materia prima del vino de jerez. Hay un refrán muy viejo en jerez, que dice: “En San Andrés, el mosto vino es.”
Esto quiere decir que ese vino del año, que hasta ese momento será un vino blanco fino, al llegar a la bodega, evolucionará en la quietud y la paciencia, en el envejecimiento bajo velo de flor único en Jerez, pasando una media como mínimo de tres años para convertirse en un Tío Pepe en este caso. Los que presentamos hoy parten de un Tio Pepe con no menos y a menudo más de seis años de envejecimiento.
-¿Qué porcentaje aproximado de lo que entra en bodega puede convertirse en este tipo de vino evolucionado?
-Es muy difícil de cuantificar, pues cada cosecha tiene sus peculiaridades. Lo importante realmente es la selección, teniendo en cuenta que para esta colección el equipo de enólogos de la casa y expertos externos han estado catando y seleccionando más de 150 botas, que no significa 150 catas sino ese número multiplicado por todo el tiempo que se ha estado trabajando en la selección. O sea, que de todas las existencias susceptibles de ser Palma, se han venido seleccionando hasta obtener los que merecen ser calificado como tales.
Hay una frase de nuestro enólogo Antonio Flores, que dice mucho y con gran sentido en este marco, que para hacer un buen vino hay que gastar mucha suela de zapatos, andar mucho tiempo en la bodega yendo de bota a bota seleccionando, y gastar también mucha tiza que pinta muy bien sobre el roble americano que empleamos en Jerez para las botas. En estos Cuatro Palmas de González Byass hay muchísima pasión, entusiasmo y trabajo por parte de la familia y sus especialistas.
-Hablando de especialistas, tienen que ser expertos excepcionales para poder estimar entre cientos de botas las que se podrían convertir en Palmas. ¿Qué opinas, el buen enólogo nace o se hace?
-En nuestro caso nace, pues tenemos el privilegio de que el que cuida de los vinos de González Byass ha nacido prácticamente en la bodega, pues heredó desde pequeño esa pasión de su padre y lleva ya muchos años trabajando para la casa. Yo creo también que se hace, con la constancia y el trabajo.
Hay que tener en cuenta que dedicarse a este mundo del jerez en particular, significa que en muchas ocasiones, por ejemplo en un vino de 40 años como el Cuatro Palmas, probablemente el enólogo que tomó las decisiones iniciales para que ese vino llegara a ser lo que es hoy, no tuvo la opción de probarlo actualmente. Muchas veces los enólogos de hoy toman decisiones sobre vinos que degustarán las generaciones venideras.
De tal forma, junto con la calidad de la uva, los procedimientos, la tierra, la denominación de origen, juega el factor humano, esa pasión que ponen en su trabajo los creadores de los grandes vinos.
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CONÓCENOS en este vídeo y mira de qué forma quedó nuestro HUEVO FRITO en la caravana de CANAL COCINA en la villa de Madrid.
Credito
Por Ricardo Potts